The club tries to start the season closer to the beginning of May.  The limiting factor is weather.  Usually, the weather does not improve enough until March to begin working on the boats.  The entire fleet needs to be prepared during March & April.  Cold or wet weather can slow fleet preparation.  But if all goes well, the club fleet is usually ready to sail during the first week of May.  Be careful while sailing in May.  The weather can be rough and the water is still cold.

The season ends around the third week of October because darkness comes early and there is no longer enough light to sail during weekday evenings.  Also, it is important that the entire fleet is decommissioned for winter storage before freezing weather arrives.

The season officially begins with the Commissioning Ceremony and ends with the Fleet Decommissioning.

When can Club J/24s go Sailing

During this season, the club fleet of J/24s is available to members seven days a week from 9 a.m. until dusk.

A club J/24 can go sailing whenever there is a member with Skipper Privileges and at least one other person onboard. The maximum number of people recommended for a club J/24 is six.

Tuesday, Wednesday and Saturday evenings are race nights at the club.  Occasionally, the boats are also reserved for special events such as corporate regattas which contribute towards the club's operating budget.

How to Become a Club Skipper

If you wish to get Skipper Privileges at the club, please read this section.

How to Get Sailing

Before going sailing, members should invest in certain equipment which will create a safer environment. In Manhattan there is one marine store, West Marine on West 37th Street between 5th & 6th Avenues. You can also shop for marine supplies on-line.

The first piece of equipment you should acquire is a personal flotation device such as a lifejacket or inflatable suspenders.

The second piece of equipment is handheld VHF radio. This is the standard communication device for marine environments. If you have a serious problem while sailing, you can contact the United States Coast Guard on CH 16.   Before sailing and while underway, you can check weather forecasts on WX 1.   Before leaving and entering North Cove, you are required to ask permission from the dock master on CH 69.  VHF radios are required for Skippers but Regular members should consider acquiring and familiarizing themselves with one as well.

When sailing on a boat, there should always be at least two people who know how to operate the boat.  If one person falls overboard, the other person will need to rescue him or her.  Often, you see sailors who have just purchased a boat (or acquired Skipper Privileges at our club) invite only non-sailing friends out to celebrate.  This is not smart or safe.

1. Check the motor mount clamps before starting your engine. These clamps hold the engine to the motor mount. Over time, engine vibration shakes them loose. If they become loose, the motor can jump off the mount and fall into the water. This is especially true if you try to make too sharp of a turn with the motor. A prudent skipper checks that the clamps are tight before starting the engine. Hand tighten only, do not use tools.

2. Never remove the engine lock down bar.  When an engine goes into reverse, it automatically locks itself down so that the propeller does not fly up out of the water, creating a dangerous situation.  If for some reason, your engine does not tilt up, do not remove the engine lock down bar.  This is the bar at the bottom of the engine bracket.  This bar enables the engine to lock itself down when in reverse.  If your engine is in neutral and will not tilt, the engine may have been hit and the bracket slightly bent, creating friction.  Also, it is possible that a small plastic tilt fitting in the engine bracket has broken, causing the engine tilt mechanism not to release.  If you are unable to tilt the engine, please report this to the dockmaster so that the cause can be determined. 

3. Check Gas Before Leaving Dock.  Make sure you have enough for your needs. You should never fill your J/24 gas tank more than 3/4 full.  This is to allow for expansion of the gas if the temperature increases.  If you fill your tank full on a cold day and the temperature increases, the gas inside the tank will expand and may pressurize the tank, creating a dangerous situation or leaking into the boat.

8. Don't Wait Until the Last Minute.  Always start your engine well before you need it. Do not wait until you are at the entrance of North Cove or until you are in the path of a cruise ship. And do not wait until it is almost dark. Always leave plenty of time in case a problem arises. This is what makes a good sailor.

9. Don't Blame the Engine.  If you are unable to get an engine started, it is almost always a case of operator error. The causes are either too much gas in the cylinder (flooded) or not enough gas reaching the cylinder. Read the engine manual about how to deal with each problem, but please, do not rush to blame the problem on the engine.

10. Pull Cord Won't Pull Out or Won't Retract.  If your pull cord will not pull, check to see if your engine is in gear.  Many members make the mistake of stopping the engine before they put the motor into neutral.   Yamaha engines have a start in gear protection.  If your engine is in gear, the pull cord will not pull out.  If you pull the cord and it comes out but then will not retract, the engine is probably not broken. The cause is normally that your engine is in gear or the throttle is too high.  Sometimes the start-in-gear protection wears a bit or needs adjustment and it allows you to pull the starting cord but then prevents the cord from rewinding.  Ensure the engine is in neutral and lower the throttle.   The pull cord should retract.

• Shifting while at high rpms.  If you shift the engine while at high rpms, you can damage the gears in the lower unit.  The majority of shifting at high rpms occurs during stressful situation when the operator gets flustered.  This is usually seen while entering or departing North Cove.  Always remember, that the safest way to get out of a tight situation is to stop everything and get all hands to fend off.  If you try to get out of a situation by increasing your speed by revving your engine, you increase the stakes of a damaging crash.   Also, if your engine dies in North Cove, remember you can spin a J/24 on a dime and by rocking the boat, you can propel it forward.
• Starting engine with bottom out of the water. If you start the engine before you lower the engine bracket completely, the cooling water impeller will run dry and will be damaged and may be destroyed.  The cooling water impeller is located just above the lower unit.  It is a small rubber impeller which is lubricated by the water it pumps.   It is not designed to run dry.  Operation of the engine while the lower unit is not in the water will lead to the impeller heating up and disintegrating.  Always put the lower unit in the water completely.  Then wait a few seconds for water to fill the lower unit.  Then start your engine.
• Operating the engine while something is obstructing the water intake.  Very occasionally, a plastic bag gets wrapped around the lower unit, stopping cooling water from being drawn into the engine.  If you do not see the cooling water indicator stream coming out of the back of the engine, you should investigate.  Sometimes, the cooling water indicator passage is blocked by salt water which has evaporated and created salt crystals.  If this condition were present, you would normally see a few drips of water coming out of the indicator hole.  By rubbing your finger across the hole and revving the engine slightly, the flow pressure will usually clear the obstruction and the cooling water flow indicator will return.  However, if there is a more serious issue, such as a plastic bag obstructing the cooling water pickup, you must stop the engine, raise the motor and remove the obstruction.  Failure to do so will allow the engine to continue operating without cooling water.  The motor will heat up and in an extreme situation, it will seize (i.e. the cylinders melts and fuse with the piston walls).

Departing and Entering North Cove

Taking a boat in and out of North Cove Yacht Harbor requires knowledge and care. The most important thing for club members is to get permission from the North Cove Dock Master on VHF CH 69 before pushing off from the dock.

North Cove's primary clients are these large yachts. In order for our club to keep its facilities at North Cove, it is essential that we do not interfere with these yachts. The biggest danger to every member is that someone in a club boat tries to leave or enter the harbor at the same time as a yacht. Because of the strong current, large yachts must line up their entrance well in advance and often approach the mouth at an angle and with speed. If they are obstructed, they could hit a wall or a small sailboat causing serious damage. Naturally, the captains of these yachts are concerned that one of our sailboats may interfere while they are trying to enter or leave.

To stay out of the way, you must understand which direction the current is going in. When you leave North Cove, the current will sweep you in its direction. Be alert not to get swept into the way of an approaching yacht. Also, when yachts approach to enter the harbor, they often must approach at an angle. Look around and see what boats are near the harbor entrance before you put a sailboat in the way.

When you depart North Cove, always do so at slow speed and with your crew looking out for obstructions in the river. It is common for powerboats to motor at high speed along the seawall and in front of North Cove. It is important that club boats proceed slowly into the Hudson River so that the potential of collision is minimized.

Backing Up From The Slip

Every skipper must know how to back up carefully, slowly and in a controlled manner. Operating a sailboat in reverse is a simple procedure as long as a sailor follows the basic rule of operating the engine and tiller in unison.

To back up, get your engine running in low rpms. Sit in the back of the boat on the same side as the engine. With one hand, hold the tiller. With the other, hold the engine throttle. Put the engine in reverse and slowly back up with the engine in low rpms. Never operate at medium throttle or higher near the dock. To change the direction of your boat as it backs up, move the engine and throttle in unison. To steer the stern of the boat towards starboard, pull the tiller and throttle to port. To steer the stern towards port, pull the tiller and throttle to starboard.

Often, you see novice sailors try to back up by using only the tiller or the engine. If the tiller and engine are not used in unison, it is difficult or impossible to control the direction of the boat as it backs up. The same concept of using the tiller and engine in unison applies when going forward.

Selecting Your Sails

If you are the crew on a boat and the skipper is putting up too much sail, speak up. Remember that if you fall overboard, you are risking your life on the sailing skills of the skipper. The skipper would get back to you much quicker if there was less sail flying.

Whenever it is windy or your crew is inexperienced, putting up less sail is the safest way to go.

The final reason for putting up less sail is wear and tear on the club equipment.  Flying lots of sail in windy conditions will lead to equipment breakage. You will also be deteriorating the sails by luffing them in high wind or allowing them to slap against the mast. 

How to Raise Your Sails

Always raise the mainsail first. The mainsail provides stability and allows the boat to steer easily. A J/24 can sail in every direction under mainsail. It cannot sail easily under only the genoa or jib.

To raise the mainsail, head the boat directly into the wind.  Slow the boat down as much as possible to reduce the apparent wind but maintain steerage so the boat remains pointed into the wind until the mainsail is up completely.

If the boat is not pointed into the wind and the mainsail fills even partially, the pressure on the halyard will prevent the sail from being raised easily. Some sailors then use the winch to raise the sail the remaining distance.  However, using the winch increases the stress on the main halyard.  This wears out the halyard. If it is difficult to raise the main halyard, be sure the boat is pointed directly into the wind and that the mainsail is luffing completely.

Raising the jib or genoa is the maneuver which is done wrong most frequently in sailing.  The instinct for most sailors is to raise the jib or genoa while the boat is pointing into the wind, just like raising the mainsail.  However, raising the jib or genoa while pointing into the wind will cause the leech of the sail to slap against the mast. The will lead to a deterioration of the sail cloth along the leech, especially in strong winds. To prevent this unnecessary wear, raise the jib or genoa while sailing on a broad reach or run.

It is also easier to raise the jib or genoa while on a broad reach or run.  Everyone understands that it is easier to raise a sail in 5 knots of wind versus 15 knots.  Now consider apparent wind. If the wind is blowing at 10 knots and if you are heading into the wind at 5 knots, the apparent wind coming over the bow is 15 knots.  If your boat is heading downwind at 5 knots, the apparent wind you feel is 5 knots. It is better to raise the jib or genoa in 5 knots.

Where to Sail in the Harbor

The harbor is a large sailing area but some areas are better for sailing than others. Things that make good sailing areas are: depth of water, lack of currents and consistency of wind.

A good sailor understands the necessity of charts.  Charts are nautical maps which show the depth of water.  When driving a car, you can take a new road and explore where it leads. If there is a pothole in the road, you can drive around it.  But suppose you could not see the surface of the road.  In Manhattan, you would soon drive your car into a big pothole, breaking your axle. The sailing equivalent is running aground.

From the surface of the water, there is no way to accurately determine the depth.  Without knowing the depth, you could sail into an area of rocks which would catch your keel. Charts tell you where you can and cannot sail.

You might think running aground is not that big of a deal.  But if you run aground on an outgoing tide, you may get stuck for six hours in a single place.  And you will damage the boat.

The J/24 can be damaged in two ways by running aground.  The first is structural damage.  This happens when you hit a rock at medium to high speed or you get "high and dry" so that the weight of the J/24 rests upon the keel.  In both circumstances, the force upon the keel is so great that it can fracture or break the fiberglass which secures the keel-hull joint. In extreme cases, the force of the collision can split the hull in the front and back of the keel.  The damage can be minimized by immediately hauling the boat out of the water and repairing any cracks.  If cracks occurred and the boat is left in the water, the damage will be magnified because water will get into the cracks, further weakening the neighboring fiberglass.  It is extremely important that whenever a boat runs aground that the skipper and crew report it immediately to the general manager so that preventative maintenance can be performed to minimize potential damage.

The second way a J/24 can be damaged by running aground is through the removal of the bottom paint on the keel. If you run aground on a sandy bottom, the keel and keel-hull joint will not be subjected to the extreme forces of hitting rock.  However, the sand will quickly remove the bottom paint. When the bottom paint is removed, aquatic life such as barnacles will immediately begin growing on the exposed section of keel.  To a racing team, this means their boat will get slower and slower each week. In almost every circumstance, they will not know why their boat is going slow until they pull it out at the end of the season.  Again, by reporting when a boat runs aground, this problem can be prevented.

The J/24 draws 4 feet. By studying a chart of the harbor, you will see there are many places with less than 4 feet of water. Stay clear of these areas.

The most common place to see sailboats aground is south of the Statue of Liberty.  There are some old reefs in this area which can be easily seen on the chart.  However, some people go sailing in the harbor without studying a chart.  They sail by the Statue of Liberty and run aground. It has happened to some very famous sailors, but in every instance, they did not check their charts.  Extreme caution should be taken whenever sailing south of the Statue because it is easy to loose your bearings and sail onto rocks.

New York Harbor has strong tides and currents.  In the days of transportation by sail, these were a bonus.  Even if there was little wind, ships could make distance towards their objectives by "catching the tide."  Recreational sailors can also use the tides and currents to their benefit.  But if you ignore or try to fight the tides and current, you will find them a menace.

The tides rise and fall twice per day. Tide is caused by the gravitational pull of the moon.  The rising and falling of the tide causes current.  To learn about the tides and current in New York Harbor, you should purchase an Eldridge Tide Book. It is available in most marine stores.  Eldridge lists the times of high and low tide every day of the year.  The book also has charts which show the direction and speed of the current for each hour before and after high tide.

To make your sailing experience as enjoyable as possible, you should know what the tide is and will be doing.  You should then adjust your sailing plans.  The first rule of thumb is to go against the current first so that you do not fight it on the way home.  This is similar to walking on a hill.  Start by walking up so that when you return, you are coming down.  If you walk down first, by the time you turn around, you may find the uphill portion requires more energy than you have left.

If you are scheduling a two hour sail and go with the current for one hour before turning around, it could take you significantly more than an hour to get back.  It might take you two or even three hours! It is much better to sail against the current for one hour and then breeze home with the tide.  A good sailor always knows how to catch the tide.

Novice sailors sometimes try to sail to the Verrazano Bridge.  If they are going with the tide on the way out, they think they are making really good time.  But when they turn around to come home, they discover the current is against them.  Many times, this means a boat is not returned at the proper time or worse yet, before dusk.

To smart sailors, current is a friend. After sailing in the harbor for a while and by studying and understanding the tide book, you can begin using the tides to your advantage.  You can time your sails so that you use an outgoing tide to get to the Narrows and when the tide turns, use the incoming tide to sail home.  This is the mark of an experienced navigator.

One final note about current.  The current is stronger in some places than others.  The current is especially strong in the East River and Buttermilk Channel and both areas should be avoided.

Wind and Weather

Just like tides and currents, good sailors understand wind and weather.  Before sailing, you should always check the weather forecast to know what type of weather is in the area.  Not only will this let you pack the right clothing, but it is essential for safety.  If you have a hand-held VHF radio, check the 24-hour weather channel.

Whenever there is inclement weather in the forecast, you should reconsider your sailing plans.  Is it worth the risk?  When people think sailing in stormy weather is exciting and worth the risk, it is usually because they do not understand the risk.  If something goes wrong during a nice day in the harbor, it will be easy to get help.  But if something goes wrong during a storm, you will be on your own.  Sailing is a sport you can practice your entire life.  Don't take unnecessary risks.

If inclement weather is in the forecast but has not yet reached the harbor and you still wish to go sailing, stay near North Cove.  Don't get caught in a storm. Squalls and thunderstorms often move at 40 knots.  When you see one approaching, are you going to be able to get to dock and have the boat put away before it hits?  If you stay close to North Cove, you are sailing more responsibly.  If you are ever sailing with a skipper who got stuck in a thunderstorm because "it came up unexpectedly," do yourself a favor and find a new person to sail with.

Whenever there is any thunder, all boats should return to dock immediately.  You should wait at least one hour after the last thunder is heard before considering sailing again, and then only if the sky has cleared.

Commercial Traffic

Many boats share New York Harbor and it is important that Manhattan Sailing Club boats operate in a friendly and proper manner.  The club has a rule that says club boats must give way to all commercial traffic.  The reason behind this rule is obvious.  Commercial boaters are earning their livelihood on the water.  We are only using the water for pleasure.  Members would not like roller-bladers rolling through their offices and commercial boat operators do not like pleasure boaters to get in their way.  Manhattan Sailing Club understands and respects this.

The commercial traffic you are likely to see in the harbor are the Staten Island and Port Imperial ferries, various tugs with and without barges, cruise ships, oil lighters and the World Yacht and Circle Line boats.  Members should be courteous to these vessels and not sail close to them.  Whenever the paths of a commercial vessel and a club boat are converging, the club vessel should at the earliest opportunity make a clear alteration of course so as to stay out of the way.

Anchoring and Docking

The club boats are outfitted with an anchor which is stored in the locker above the sink.  This anchor is for emergency use only.  Members should never anchor a club boat unless an emergency exists.

You should only anchor if you become disabled in some way and cannot return to dock.  The danger about anchoring in the harbor is that you may anchor in a shipping channel and be exposed to a collision with another boat.

There are several locations in the harbor which allow boats to dock.  These include several restaurants and gassing facilities.  Club boats are not allowed to dock at any docks or facility other than the docks they originated from.

The reason is to protect the boats.  Docking at docks not designed for small sailboats and without sufficient fenders can result in scratches in the gelcoat.  Unless an emergency exists, members should not dock at any facility except the proper slip for the boat where it originated from.

Alcohol and Drugs

Sailing is a form of relaxation. You have fresh air, wind, water and sunshine.  The club hopes members will achieve a natural high.

Inevitably though, some people feel they cannot properly relax or enjoy themselves without a beer or glass of wine. A lcohol and boating do not mix.  Studies prove that most boating accidents are alcohol-related.  When you drink any amount of alcohol, your thought processes and motor coordination are affected.  The more alcohol you drink, the more these vital skills are affected.

Some people might not consider this an important subject.  They are wrong.  Every year, people die unnecessarily because they, or someone else, combines drinking and boating.  Do not contribute to this problem.  This is especially true in windy or inclement conditions when someone can get hit by the boom or fall overboard.

If you have to, the best time to enjoy a drink is after you have finished sailing and the boat is put away.  You've just had a great sail in the harbor and now is the time to celebrate.  You can relax totally.  On dry land, there is not much you can do to hurt yourself or your crew.  But remember, let someone else do the driving.

No member should bring a large amount of alcohol on a club boat.  Not only does this put yourself in danger, but it could jeopardize our club and everyone's ability to enjoy our great resource.

No member should ever return to the dock intoxicated.  Nor should any member come down to the dock intoxicated.  If either occurs, the member may be removed from the club.

Article on the Effects on Drinking from Boat US Magazine

The US Coast Guard has a "zero tolerance policy" towards illegal drugs on boats.  This policy states that if any amount of illegal drugs are found on a boat, the boat will be confiscated.  If any member or their guest or crew brings any form of illegal drug onto a club boat, that member will be subject to removal from the club.

Docking

After a nice sail in the harbor it is time to dock your boat.  When approaching the dock, always operate the engine at the lowest rpm possible.  The best scenario is to come in as slow as possible.  If you have enough speed to approach the dock, shift the engine into neutral.  If you are in forward gear, even if the throttle is down as far as possible, you are still accelerating.  When you approach the dock, come in slow enough that a member of your crew can hop off on the finger pier and walk to the front of the dock to grab your bow.  If you come in slow enough, you should not have to use any reverse.  A sign of improper docking with too much speed is when the engine must be put in strong reverse.

When the boat arrives at dock, two people can hold the boat steady.  One person should hold the bow pulpit from the front of the dock.  The other person should hold the forward stanchion from the finger pier.

The first line that should be attached is the red spring line.  Take the stainless steel clip at the end of this line, loop it through the very bottom of the forward stanchion base and then attach the clip back to the beginning of the spring line where there is a loop for this purpose.  The spring line will keep the bow from hitting the dock.  Once the spring line is attached, the person holding the bow pulpit can actually hold the boat by themselves.  Practice this to see how pushing the bow pulpit with the spring line attached will swing the stern in either direction.

The next lines to attach are the white bow lines.  Pull the bow lines through the pulpit where the bow chocks are and attach them one at a time to the bow cleat.  The bow lines have pre-set loops.  Just loop each over the cleat on the deck.

The final line to attach is the blue stern line.  This goes from the stern cleat to the cleat at the end of the finger pier.

Whenever a boat is coming into dock, whether it is a club boat or another boat, it is nautical courtesy for all free hands on the dock to help catch the lines of the incoming boat and to help fend off.  If a boat is coming in under too high of a speed, use your hands to fend off by applying pressure to the bow pulpit or any other part of the boat at chest height.  Never use your feet or legs to fend off a boat because this frequently results in injury.  Under no circumstances ever put any body parts between the boat and the dock or another boat under the assumption that you will prevent a collision.  Boats have significant momentum which is often too much for one or more people to stop.  Putting your limbs in the path may result in serious injury.

The only exception to the courtesy of helping a boat dock is when the operator is not operating a boat safely or may be under the influence of alcohol or drugs.  This can put anyone who helps at risk of injury.  In this case, members are encouraged to keep their distance.

Caring for the Club Fleet

Keeping the club fleet in top condition is the responsibility of every member.  Over the years, the club has streamlined its maintenance procedures to the point where we have an efficient system which keeps the boats in top condition.

Before every sail, members should:

• Pump the bilge dry.

After every sail, members should:

• Remove all garbage from the boat, including cabin and cooler.
• Wash the boat down with fresh water.

A little bit done each day keeps the boat in top condition.

Where Things Go Onboard

There is one correct place to store each piece of equipment on our J/24s.  Please be sure that when you leave a boat, everything is in the correct place.

Please follow this guide:

1) Forepeak: The genoa and jib should in their bags in the forepeak. The spinnaker pole and any spinnakers should also be in the forepeak.

2) Rope Locker: The genoa and spinnaker sheets, spinnaker twings and winch handle should be stored in the rope locker.  No other items should be in there.  It is important to lift the rope locker out of the boat every other week and to clean underneath it.  This is an area where lots of dirt accumulates.

3) Locker Above Sink: The anchor, anchor line and flares should be stored in the locker above the sink on the starboard side of the cabin.  The anchor is kept here so that it is not exposed to the dampness found in the bilge.  Dampness leads to mildew, rot and rust.

4) Locker Below Sink: All cleaning supplies should be stored in the locker below the sink.  Each boat is equipped with a red bucket.  Use the bucket to hold your sponges, scrub brushes, gloves or any other cleaning supplies on the boat.  Also keep the bilge pump in this locker.  The pump and bucket are numbered.  Be sure you have the correct ones for your boat.

5) Starboard Aft Bunk: Stack the six life jackets for your boat in the aft end of the starboard bunk.  Store them neatly so that a visual inspection can easily determine that all six are onboard.

6) Locker Behind Fuse Panel on Port Side: A copy of the boat's registration is kept in a plastic pouch attached to the back of the door to the locker behind the fuse panel on the port side.  Nothing else should be kept in this locker.  Check the bottom of the locker occasionally and sponge out any water which accumulates.

7) Cooler: Nothing should be stored in the cooler.  At the end of every sail, remove the cooler from the boat, dump out any ice and take all garbage to the garbage pails at the top of the dock.  Wash out the cooler with fresh water and let it dry before returning to the boat.

8) Lockers Below Bunks: Nothing should be stored in any of the lockers below the bunks.  Each bunk has a plywood cover which is then covered by the bunk cushion.  Check these lockers occasionally to make sure that some missing equipment does not find its way in there and that water or garbage does not accumulate.

10) Cockpit Lazarettes: The gas can should be stored in the port cockpit lazarette.  No other equipment should be kept in either lazarette.  Check the lazarettes every other week to make sure that dirt does not clog up the drain holes which drain into the bilge.  The holes are clogged whenever water accumulates in these lazarettes.  To solve this problem, take a narrow screw driver and poke it through the drain hole.  If you can't find the drain holes, first pump and sponge out the water.

The biggest enemy of a sail is ultra violet radiation (UV) from the sun.  Materials exposed to the sun deteriorate and sails are no exception.  This is the main reason for sail covers.  Our covers are dark blue canvas which protect our sails from UV rays when the sails are not being used.

The next biggest enemy of sails is improerp use.  A sail is like a piece of paper.  If you fold it carefully, it will retain its shape.  But if you crumple it up, the paper begins to break down.  Of course, the best way to store paper is to roll it.  The same is true for sails.  The worst thing someone can do to a sail is crumple it up.  And yet, how many times do you see someone drop their genoa and then crumple it up on the bow or push it down the hatch?  You cannot treat a sail like this and expect it to last.  Whenever you drop a sail on deck, lay it carefully to one side so that it is not walked on and under no circumstance, squish it up or drag it through the hatch.

Another common way to hurt a sail is to luff it, especially in windy conditions.  When a sail luffs, its leech shakes with great force.  Over time, this force will cause the batten pockets and stitching to rip. It will also break down the resin at the edge of the sail, causing the edge to flutter and loose its shape.  This is especially true when luffing the genoa or jib in strong winds when the leech of the sail slaps against the mast.  Whenever you are in windy conditions and you boat is overpowered so that you have to luff either the main, genoa or jib, you should shorten sail.  If you have the genoa up, take it down and use the jib.  If you have the jib up, take it down and sail under the main only.  Racers should take special note.  Between races in heavier air, it is much better for the genoa or jib to lie on deck rather than flap about.  As soon as you cross the finish line, drop your front sail and keep it down until just before the next race.

When you return to dock, carefully put the sails away to minimize the wear and tear.  Roll the mainsail onto the boom and flake the genoa and jib.  When rolling the mainsail, you need at least two people, but three is better.  Start by folding the sail in half, taking the head to the clew.  This will fold the top half of the leech along the lower half of the leech.  Some people try to roll the entire sail beginning at the head.  This is not a good technique because the head has several layers of sailcloth and it will retain a curl if rolled tightly.  By starting at the halfway fold, the head gets rolled at the very end and is not subjected to a tight roll.

With the sail folded in half, one person should stand at each end of the halfway fold with the third person in the middle.  Face the boom with the sail between you and the boom.  Begin rolling.  The slower you roll, the better it will turn out.  Once rolled up completely use a sail tie to secure the mainsail and then put the boom cover on.  The boom covers have a front and back.

When flaking the genoa & jib, stretch the foot out all of the way.  One person stands at the luff and the other person stands at the leech.  Flake the sail towards the foot using folds about 3 feet in width.  If possible, do not put a fold in the window because this clear material can permanently hold a crease (this is especially important when storing the sail for the winter).  After flaking the sail, start at the clew and fold up the folds.  Then drop the sail into the yellow genoa or jib bag which is marked with your boat number.  The bag is then placed in the forepeak for storage.  Carry the bag through the main hatch, not through the front hatch which would crumple the sail.

The genoa and spinnaker sheets, spinnaker twings and winch handle are all stored in the rope locker which you step on to enter the cabin.  Keep the rope locker clean and free of mildew.  Coil the sheets before storing them.

The electrical system is 12-volt similar to most small boats and cars.  There is a single battery, a fuse panel and several lights.  The lights are:

• Running Lights (red and green on the bow and white on the stern) to be used whenever a boat is in the harbor after sunset.
• Steaming Light (white half way up mast on front) to be used whenever under engine power after sunset.
• Cabin Lights (2 in main cabin and 1 in forepeak) to provide light when cleaning the interior of the boat after sunset.

The lights are powered by a 12-volt battery which is located in a battery case underneath the table in the cabin.  Care must be taken whenever a battery is handled.  Inside the battery is acid.  At the top of the battery are two lids which allow water to be added to the batteries as required from time to time.  If these lids are not secured tightly, battery acid may seep out.  If the acid gets on your clothes, when you wash clothes, you will find a hole where the acid was.  The acid can burn your skin and cause blindness. Extreme caution should be taken.  Always make sure the battery lids are securely fastened.  Ignoring the battery is not the solution, knowledge and inspection is.

Each battery has a finite amount of power.  When you turn a light on, power is being drained from the battery.  If the light were left on for a long period of time, it would drain the battery completely. Once a battery is drained, it must be recharged.  How long your battery can provide power before it is drained depends on how you take care of your battery.  The way you charge your battery and store it during the off-season is very important.