Photo: The epic
moment during Monaco Classic Week came when Yacht Club de Monaco's flagship "Tuiga"
(D3), celebrating her 100th anniversary, tacked ahead and on the starboard hip
of
Moonbeam III (88) raced by members of the Manhattan Sailing Club! There
ensued a great duel, side by side, with each team straining to get more speed.
Slowly, Tuiga inched ahead, only fitting for their 100th Birthday! (photo
courtesy of Suzann Fulbright)
Monaco Classic Week 2009
Four magical days in the
Principality of Monaco.
Participating in Monaco Classic Week.
Celebrating the
Centenary of YCM's flagship "Tiuga."
The only way to write this story is to begin by taking a deep breath. Wow! For all the things we dream about, all the places we wish to go, all the events we hope to attend, Monaco always ranks near the top. So you can imagine there was magic during this trip. It was the highlight of all our sailing careers and the most glamorous sailing event any of us could have imagined.
By itself, Monaco Classic Week is an incredible spectacle. But this year, it was also the Centenary celebration of their flagship Tuiga, the beautiful Fife 15 Meter yacht built in 1909.
"Tuiga" was the reason we launched the expedition to participate in Monaco Classic Week. Our club wanted to join her on her Centenary!
And so this is the story of Monaco Classic Week 2009, told through pictures and text. Enjoy
By long standing tradition (dating back to 1991 when Manhattan Sailing Club sent our first team to race at Yacht Club de Monaco), we always begin our Monaco experiences with a champagne toast at Bar American in the Hotel de Paris. Located on the main square beside the Casino, Hotel de Paris is a grand Belle Époque hotel and considered the finest in Monaco. After to arriving in Nice on the overnight flight from NYC, we catch a few hours nap at the hotel, then meet at Bar American for champagne at 4 p.m. Welcome to Monaco! For good luck during your stay, be sure to rub the horse statue's knee statue when you walk through the hotel doors!
After the champagne is finished, we walk down the hill and around the port to Yacht Club de Monaco. Currently, YCM is located on the west side of the port. Plans are underway to build a new yacht club building on the east side of the port. During this visit, Monaco's port was bustling with activity as beautiful classic yachts were pulling in and tying up. At the yacht club, a seminar was underway about the history of Tuiga.
We had, of course, traveled to Monaco to be there for Tuiga on her 100th anniversary. She was docked on the float directly in front of the club. After receiving permission from YCM, Emily Whipple took off her shoes and posed for a picture onboard.
Our sailing club had chartered another grand classic yacht, Moonbeam III. We were very fortunate that she was docked on the same float as Tuiga. It was a great honor for our yacht and team to be so close to Tuiga.
Because of the importance of Monaco Classic Week, it was a who's who of the sailing world. America's most famous sailor and our patron at North Cove, Dennis Conner, was there. Here Dennis and his friends Chris and Mica are greeted by Commodore Michael Fortenbaugh and Gerry Dolezar.
The personality behind Yacht Club de Monaco and all the great things they have accomplished over the years is their Secretary General, Bernard d'Alessandri. To say Bernard is a visionary is an understatement. All of our participation at Yacht Club de Monaco is a result of Bernard and his great capacity for friendship and building international relationships between clubs.
Commodore Fortenbaugh first met Bernard in 1988 when both clubs entered boats in the Tour de France a la Voile. The Manhattan Sailing Club and Yacht Club de Monaco were docked side by side during the fit out. During the preliminary race, it was observed that both teams were fairly matched. This resulted in a discussion between Bernard and the Commodore and a friendly wager of a bottle of champagne per race. It was the start of a long collaboration.
Twenty-one years later, and on the eve of Bernard's and Yacht Club de Monaco's great triumph, both international sailors stood on the dock and renewed their bet - a bottle of champagne per race!
Thursday morning arrived and with it, the pomp and ceremony of departure of the yachts for race one. Our sailors donned the white crew suits and after a beautiful breakfast of coffee, tea and croissants, the dock lines were cast off.
Leading our team was the extremely skilled and quite fearless Moonbeam III Captain Erwan Noblet (you should have seem him docking the yacht with inches to spare all around!). To generate enthusiasm and spirit among our members, Erwan donned his New York City t-shirt, which he promised came from the 1980s!
We were racing in Le Belle Class which was reserved for the largest yachts. There was a long starting line and a downwind start. We choose the pin end of the line to starboard and away from the coast. We had the best start and for a few minutes, Moonbeam III was leading all of the yachts, including yachts of twice her size!
Spinnakers went up and some of the larger yachts which had greater waterline and sail area slowly moved past us.
When we reached the first mark, the fleet came together and racing was exceptionally close. Here, the bowsprit of Moonbeam IV passes close to our port side. Until the mark, we were ahead of Tuiga. But as we approached the mark, several larger boats sailed over us, taking our wind and slowing our progress. Tuiga was not able to pass inside of us for lack of an overlap and so she took our stern before the mark.
There were two epic moments during the race. This was the first. Every tactician knows the rule of rounding a mark wide and then tight. And while that is the preferred method, it is not always possible, especially when 100+ foot yachts are sailing down on you, dropping their spinnakers and jockeying for position!
At the leeward mark, we were forced to round tight first and then came off wide after the mark. Tuiga, with Dennis Conner calling tactics, rounded wide and then tight. This image shows Tuiga (D3) passing our boat Moonbeam III (88) to windward. We were unable to sail high enough to squeeze her out.
Although Tuiga got ahead at this mark, they were soon blanketed by some of the same larger boats which had affected us earlier. We were able to catch up. On the upwind leg, Tuiga passed us on port by one boat length. Then she tacked to cover on starboard and was on our starboard hip.
This was epic moment number two and captured in the picture at the very top of this page. For several minutes, we sailed side by side, each skipper, crew and yacht straining for extra speed and reduced windage, until Tuiga found a higher gear and slowly passed us.
This picture gives you a better view of what it was like to sail onboard one of the great classic yachts. There were a few winches and all the sails are raised, lowered and trimmed by hand! The teak decks, varnished mahogany and twisted rope sheets transported you back in time to classic racing!
There is no question that racing in classic week was the grandest achievement of all our sailing careers. Here Moonbeam III approaches the windward mark before turning back for home. What incredible beauty and a rare opportunity to sail on such a historic yacht.
Here is another view of life onboard during the race as crew concentrates and tries to help the boat sail faster. Zander Lassen is in the foreground.
With Race One finished, we lowered sails which is quite a long and complex series of maneuvers. After and hour or so, we were finally ready to head back to dock. But first, a toast to the skipper and crew and a team picture!
Back at dock, it was time for Commodore Fortenbaugh to make good on his bet. Here he is offering to shake Bernard's hand after presenting him with the victory bottle of champagne. Mr. America's Cup Dennis Conner, who served as tactician on Tuiga, looks on. Twenty-one years after the first bet was made between Yacht Club de Monaco and Manhattan Sailing Club, the tradition continues.
Another tradition at Yacht Club de Monaco is the sabering of champagne. Bernard produced the saber inscribed with Le Belle Classe and set the tone for the rest of the regatta. Jean-Baptiste Torrel stands by on the left. No one in the world sabers a bottle of champagne better than Bernard!
The club social uniform for the regatta was traditional American yachting attire - blue blazer and club tie, white shirt, white pants and white bucks. Here Etienne Ramos-Esteban, Allen Wolf and Zander demonstrate the MSC style while waiting for a taxi in front of the Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel.
Every evening throughout the regatta was a grand social event. It was, after all, Monaco! On Thursday, which was the first day of racing, we all started with drinks at the dock. Pictured above are Chris Dundon, Emily, Danielle Gallo and Zander. From champagne toasts in front of the beautiful yachts, we continued to the crew party up on the seawall overlooking the glittering port.
When Friday dawned, the sky was overcast with rain. Our team gathered on Moonbeam III for another beautiful breakfast with coffees and croissants. Then the wait began. No wind arrived with the precipitation so slowly, the hours ticked by. We talked, laughed, looked around the Yacht Club de Monaco, read the magazines, ate lunch and had beers at the bar. By early afternoon, the race committee determined there could be no race, so signals were made and everyone began preparing for the evening events.
Friday evening began with champagne on a tall ship along the Monaco quay. The announcement of the concourse d'elegance trophies was made. A few rain drops came down and we moved the champagne reception to the back of the tall ship were there was cover. This team picture shows our crew ready for an evening of excitement.
Monaco, of course, means black tie! It also means champagne! Dan Apfel, Albert Yuen and Michael Noonan smile for the camera at the start of the evening.
Inside the crew tent, a large sail from Tuiga had been hung and all participating sailors were encouraged to sign it. Our club made an inscription to Tuiga which was signed by most of our sailors.
The nights in Monaco go on and on with many things to do, places to see and people to join. Our team was graciously hosted by Jean & Blandine Redalto on their rooftop terrace which looked out over all Monaco.
Saturday morning dawned and it was the big day of Monaco Classic week. Captain Erwan was dressed in his black reefer jacket like a proper gentleman. Before heading out for the final day, our team paused again for a team picture. No question about it, Moonbeam III was the most beautiful yacht any of us had ever sailed. What a special memory!
These 3 pictures will give you a sense of life onboard while we drifted in the sea, waiting for the wind to fill in.
On Saturday, all of the old steam boats from Monaco came out to toot their horns for Tuiga and the other yachts participating in Monaco Classic Week.
The race on Saturday began in drifting conditions but after while, it became obvious to the race committee that there would not be enough breeze to finish. Reluctantly, the race was abandoned. All yachts headed back to port. This was the big day because it was the Centenary Party for Tuiga. So after all the other yachts were tied up, Tuiga slowly came to dock with a Scottish bagpiper playing tunes on the front deck. It was the place to be and Danielle captured her moment in history.
Tuiga was slowly positioned and tied up, crowds were in attendance, sponsorship signs were everywhere and the stage was set for an evening of magic and history.
For enthusiastic sailors, the occasion of a 100 year celebration was long anticipated. How many 100 year celebrations have you been to? And so, after a while of standing onboard in proper ceremony, the crew on Tuiga got a little frisky. With all the excitement, the first sailor was picked up and tossed into the water as an offering to King Neptune! Then went sailor number to in the picture above!
Two turned into 3 and then 4 and 5. Soon, everyone in the vicinity was jumping or thrown into the water. It was a baptism of sailing and history all rolled into one. Note the feet sticking upwards in the picture above!
As the evening arrived, the official functions of Tugia's Centenary began. H.S.H. Prince Albert of Monaco stood aboard Tuiga and shook hands with the various dignitaries. Commodore Fortenbaugh was invited to greet Prince Albert as seen in the picture above. He thanked the Prince for creating such a great occasion so that our team of New Yorkers was inspired to come visit. And of course, the Commodore suggested New York City reciprocate by hosting Tuiga in 2011.
From the festivities on the dock, we went to the festivities at the yacht club. A fabulous entrance had been created, complete with red carpet and billowing fabric. Our team was represented in style and glamour by Danielle, Emily, Margot DeFrance. Manae Matsuura and Herma Schmitz.
Dinner at the club was all it could be. Starting with an appetizer course of foie gras, followed by a fish entree and then more, it was a delight to the taste buds. And the crowd inside Yacht Club de Monaco was stylish. Prince Albert sat at a nearby table and then spoke. Bernard served as master of ceremonies and the night was magic.
After so much hard work and planning to create the 100th Birthday of Tuiga, once it was finished, what do you do? Well, in Monaco, you head to Jimmyz Nightclub for the rest of the evening. We arrived at the front door and thanks to our friends at Yacht Club de Monaco, were whisked inside to an exclusive area for seating. Then the dance floor beckoned and Club Manhattan was soon at it, with members dancing in the center of the club on the cube.
Eitenne & Jean-Baptiste kept the beat going through the evening as it was a night without ending.
Sunday dawned a bit too early for those just returning home from Jimmyz. But the regatta schedule marches on with the awards presentation at 11 a.m. Unfortunately, only one race was completed due to light winds. But the experience was still incredible.
Tuiga won the regatta but on corrected time, Moonbeam III and the Manhattan Sailing Club team finished in second, only 3 seconds behind! Here, the Commodore accepts the second place trophy.
Back onboard Moonbeam III for a final crew picture along with the prize. This was a great honor of all of our participating club members.
This is a close up of the second place trophy, a beautiful teak fold frame with an engraved picture of Tuiga on her 100th Centenary.
After the ceremony, Moonbeam III pulled off the dock and sailed to Cannes in a flotilla with the other yachts. They were preparing for next weekend's Regatta Royale. Some club members made the trip down the Riviera onboard Moonbeam II. Other members stayed in Monaco to relax and clean up. There was a leisurely team lunch on the main street (the first time in 4 days we did not have to rush to the next event!). As evening approached, some members went out for a final champagne toast and dinner. Some even went out later, trying their luck at the casino.
Our first expedition to Monaco Classic Week proved an immense success and for all participating members. This will surely be one of their greatest sailing trips ever and one of the greatest yachts they have sailed on.
Soon, we were flying by helicopter or traveling by car and train back to Nice for the flight home to New York City.
Some of the club sailors posed at the wheel of Moonbeam III after the final day of racing.
As a club, we will travel again to Monaco to continue our long-standing and enjoyable relationship with Yacht Club de Monaco. So far, we have participated in the Primo Cup, the International Match Race and now Monaco Classic Week. We shall see what the future holds. Perhaps we will send a team again to Monaco Classic Week when it is held in 2 years. Or perhaps we will our competition with Tuiga, travel to another classic regatta, charter a boat and race against her once more.
One more final look at Monaco Classic Week 2009 is below. Moonbeam III raced by our club members has sail number 88.